Patek Philippe 5396 Annual Calendar Watch

Patek Philippe Ref. 5396 requires adjustment only once per year, accommodating the lengths of all months except February. It comes in the now-iconic Patek Philippe Calatrava replica case, a style and shape that dates back to 1932 and has become “the archetype of all classic round watches,” according to Patek. Measuring a contemporary but relatively modest 38.5 mm in diameter and 11.2 mm thick, the case flows seamlessly into the strap lugs and frames the curved sapphire crystal with a smoothly polished bezel.

Underneath the crystal, the dial displays the classical elements of Patek Philippe’s calendar watches — an in-line double window in the upper half indicating the day and month; a large aperture at 6 o’clock for the date; and a moon-phase display ringed by a 24-hour subdial in the lower half. This layout is reminiscent of Patek’s perpetual calendar wristwatches of the 1940s and ’50s, the only aesthetic difference being the 24-hour scale, which serves as a day-night indicator, replacing the 31-day analog date scale of the vintage models. The applied Breguet-style Arabic hour numerals are in 18k gold, with gold dots indicating the minutes. The Dauphine hour and minute hands have sharp center ridges and polished bevel flanks that taper into the tips. A long, slender hand counts the sweep seconds, while a small, gold, leaf-shaped hand tracks the time on the 24-hour day/night subdial.

All these functions are powered by Caliber 324 S QA LU 24H, an automatic movement that the wearer can admire through the watch’s clear sapphire caseback. It offers the wearer a very user-friendly experience when setting and resetting the calendar: the one yearly adjustment necessary, from February into March, takes just seconds thanks to the inset corrector buttons in the side of the case.

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